Double biquad antenna long range wifi

See the seller's listing for full details. The glaze is food safe so dont hesitate to shock your friends with a unique serving dish that they wont be able to get out of their head, as it was created at that time using heavy stock paper.

Each one is unique and if there is a design pattern placement may vary depending on the cut. Smooth and flexible with a shiny luster, Louisville Ladder D Extension-ladders. Install once - easily - and leave up year round, your satisfaction means everything to us at Kate Princess. Free delivery and returns on eligible orders. Western Digital Lot 2 pk USB 2. Parts List A single-sided copper clad PCB sheet - I found a 20x10cm sheet with an incomplete circuit printed on it but not etched.

The print was cleaned off with wire wool. A length of 1mm diameter bare copper wire - I found a length of mains cable and removed the earth wire. Four nuts and bolts for attaching the N-type chassis connector to the PCB. Drill, soldering iron, solder, pliers and your favoured nut and bolt tightening tools Your WiFi adaptor.

I use an Alfa awush. Here we see a close-up of the antenna. A hole has been drilled into the PCB to accept the N-type chassis connector. Note the sheet of plastic.

My initial thought was to shied the plate from the antenna but subsequent experiments have shown no change in signal strength so you do not need this plastic shielding. You can also see the antenna constructed from the 1mm earth wire. You need to bend the wire so that it forms the diamond pattern as in the photo. Each side of the diamonds are At the crossovers the wire does not touch itself.

One end of the antenna is soldered to the N-type at a height of 15mm from the collector plate. The other end is attached to one of the bolts holding the N-type chassis connector in place. Here we see the rear of the collector plate, with the N-type bolted in place.

Here is where we screw on the N-type to SMA adaptor. This is the N-type to SMA adaptor. There was an improvement of signal over my previous cantenna and the supplied stick antenna. Question 2 years ago on Introduction. Okay crazy question How about a half wave or a full wave biquad.

Is it better than the quarter wave one. I have never seen those on the internet. Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. You can use N or SMA connectors. If you have an SMA cable, it might make sense to use that so you don't need an adapter, but they are more fragile.

Remember, you need to connect the back end of the element to the ground plane. You can use a regular screw if the connector doesn't use 4 screws like the one in the picture. One question, do you get better performance from this with a single feed point vs the standard double feed point construction, or are both pretty close? Very nice build! So many designs on instructables are terrible. Antennas are an exacting design requiring tight measurement and spacing to perform well at all.

Your build shows people here how to do it right! I just got done making a 20 director YAGI beam and this high frequency RF is hard to keep the measurements in tolerance.

Most designs in the MHz range has less than 1mm tolerance. Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. It all depends on your skills as a constructor, on if you use something like a dish to concentrate the incoming signal and on if you can shield noise out of the signal as much as possible. I have since moved on to a Yagi, for which, I will produce an instructable in the future. I've been looking at more of these Bi-quad antennas and they seem to be connected to a cable dish, do they need to be connected to one to be able to receive signal or is that just for better signal?

The dish is for increased signal. You will get an improvement with a standalone bi-quad over the omnidirectional stick antenna.